First ascent of Torre Egger, Patagonia, via the West Face

Adidas athletes Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera have made climbing history by becoming the first to reach the peak of Torre Eggar from the West Face.

The pair made a new route of 30 pitches (25 new independent ones and the last five shared with the Huber-Snarf route) with a total heigh gain of 1,000m.

It took them three years, three attempts and 150 days to trace the new line on the difficult West Face of Torre Egger. For the first two years Matteo della Bordella and Matteo Bernasconi teamed up for the route and came 30m shy of the Col de Lux.

They returned a year with another teammate, Luca Schiera, and at 11.20am on the 2nd of March della Bordella and Shiera reached the summit. The new route has been named “Notti Magiche” (magic nights) in memory of the uncomfortable bivys but also the ‘magical Patagonian nights.’

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