NORTH AMERICA'S HIGHEST PEAK IS HOME TO SOME FORMIDABLE CLIMBING ROUTES
The highest peak in North America, Denali is an awe-inspiring hulk of a mountain set in the stunningly beautiful Alaskan wilderness. The most northerly of the seven summits, it often experiences harsh weather with storm force winds and heavy snowfall, making an already challenging ascent even more arduous. The mountain’s western flank sees lots of guided ascents each season, but unlike other continental highpoints Denali is a real mountaineer’s mountain, with a history of cutting-edge alpinism carved into its walls. The season runs from mid-April to July, with success rates peaking in June.
First ascent
Denali, or Mount McKinley as it was known at the time, was first climbed via the Muldrow glacier in 1913 by a team of four Americans. Without the benefit of small glacier planes to fly in to base camp Walter Harper, Harry Karstens, Hudson Stuck and Robert Tatum spent weeks carrying rudimentary mountaineering equipment through Alaska’s wilderness to reach the summit, a feat rarely repeated today.
West Buttress
Most of the mountaineers who come to climb Denali do so on the West Buttress route. Whilst technically easy, with lots of walking and short sections of steep snow, there are no easy ways to the summit and an ascent of the peak by this route should not be underestimated. Ascensionists carry all food and equipment for the two to three-week ascent with them, pulling sleds with extra supplies to a series of camps, before making a dash to the summit. Three weeks of camping on snow-covered glaciers demands lots of self-reliance and team work, giving an intensely rewarding experience.
West Rib
Those looking for a more technical classic mountaineering route should consider the West Rib, a steeper snow route taking the south-west flank of the mountain. The route is fairly escapable at half height, from where it is possible to cut across to the 14,000’ camp on the West Buttress. This also means that the aesthetic upper part of the route can be climbed from the West Buttress, a great alternative for those with limited time who would like to summit Denali in a day from the 14’000’ camp by a less crowded and more technical route.
Cassin Ridge
First climbed by the famous Italian alpinist Riccardo Cassin, the stunning ridge soaring straight up Denali’s 3,000m high south face is one of world mountaineering’s king lines. Tricky to access, and with technical difficulties up to Scottish grade V, this is Alaska’s classic harder mountaineering route, the crowning glory of many climber’s careers.
Slovak Direct
Made famous by the 60-hour single push ascent made Mark Twight, Steve House and Scott Backes at the turn of the millennium, the Slovak Direct is the hard route on the mountain. Lying to the right of the Cassin Ridge, it has the same massive amount of height gain, but much of it on difficult steep ice and mixed ground. Other big, hard routes on Denali’s South Face include the Denali Diamond, another confirmed classic, and the unrepeated Marko Prezelj route, Light Traveller.
EXTERNAL LINKS
Summit Post
‘Denali The Hard Way’ (climbing the Cassin Ridge), by Tom Livingston (T&M issue 49, April 2014)
‘Call Of The Wild’ (ascent via the West Buttress Route), by Raj Joshi (T&M issue 27, April 2012)
How to get there:
Fly to Anchorage, the state capital of Alaska, and after shopping for expedition supplies take a transfer up to the small town of Talkeetna. From there a short flight, or a very long walk, lead to base camp.
Outfitters:
The vast majority of climbers get to Denali by flying onto the Kahiltna glacier with one of the air companies based in Talkeetna. Talkeetna Air Taxis is the largest and most well-known provider, and provide basic free accommodation in Talkeetna before and after your trip. The National Park Service licenses six local companies to provide guiding services on Denali, with all out-of-town guides banned from the mountain. It is possible to pick up last minute essentials in Talkeetna, but for a great range of specialist equipment and good advice, go to Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking or REI in Anchorage.
Permits:
To climb on Denali you are required to apply for a permit from the National Park Service 60 days in advance of your trip, for a fee of $365. Park climbing rangers give mandatory briefings to all mountaineers before they head in to start their climb, giving lots of useful information. Find out more at the national park service website: www.nps.gov
