MacLeod and Muskett free climb 'Paciencia' on the Eiger

Leading climbers Dave MacLeod and Calum Muskett have become the first Brits to make a free ascent of a route scaling the North Face of the Eiger.

Located in Switzerland’s Bernese Alps, the 3970m peak saw the pair spend just over three days on the mountain before completing the 8a graded multi-pitch Paciencia route, which was first established between 2001 and 2003 by Swiss climbers Ueli Steck and Stephan Siegrist.

Following a steep line through the Rote Fluh bastion on the righthand side of the mountain’s North Face, the route follows a number of smooth slabs and is known for its technically demanding components. Due to the nature of their climb, MacLeod and Muskett used ropes and equipment solely as protection against falls, as oppose to climbing aids. Of their success, which took place last month, Muskett explained: “Paciencia is an amazing alpine/big wall challenge and should be high on the ticklist of any climber with the capability to climb it.”


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