Corsica's GR20 is one of the best multi-day treks in Europe
The GR 20 is a long-distance trail that runs roughly north-south along the spine of Corsica. It has been described as ‘Europe’s toughest trek’ and came in at number 8 in Trek & Mountain’s Top 100 Treks poll. The trail is about 180 km long and typically takes around two weeks to complete. The GR20 is clearly waymarked and can be split into two sections: the northern part, from Calenzana to Vizzavona, and the southern part, between Vizzavona and Conca.
Completing just one section of the route is a popular option, and with its train station, Vizzavona is often used as a starting or finishing point for those taking this option. Most hikers start in the north and finish in the south, though the northern part is considered harder due to its steep and rocky paths. Although the southern section is lower in altitude and the paths are considered to be easier, the temperatures in summer are often higher and can therefore cause their own problems. There are refuges along the route that offer accommodation and food, however wild camping is not allowed and those who take tents must pitch them near one of the refuges (and pay a small fee).
There is one main route along the GR20, and this is typically divided into 15 stages (fully described in Paddy Dillon’s Cicerone guidebook). One of the most popular sections of the route, the Cirque du Solitude, has in recent times been badly affected by rockfall, and an alternative route has now been waymarked to avoid this area. You can read the most recent developments about this HERE.
‘Tough and Tougher’, by Chris Kempster (Issue 30, Jul 2012)
When to go
July and August are the peak months for trekking the GR20, however this is when the weather is warmest and when the refuges are at their busiest, so June is probably the best time to go before it gets too crowded. The end of May is also a possibility though there may still be snow around and not all of the refuges and bergeries may be open.
How to get there
Most people fly into Calvi to start the GR20 from the north, but you’re likely to have to take two flights to get there and a return ticket with Air France costs around £400. Several budget airlines have started flying to Corsica, and we snapped up an Easyjet flight to Bastia for £130 return. Getting to the start point from Bastia is not quite as straightforward though.
Getting around
From Calvi, you can get a taxi to Calenzana and the start of the GR20, however unless you finish at either Vizzavona (halfway) or Conca at the end, there are only a few places for getting off the route. From Vizzavona or Conca you can use public transport to return to Calvi, but try to avoid travelling on a Sunday as few services run.
Where to stay
The sleeping options on the trail are either staying in refuges which costs around 10 euros per night, or camping outside the refuge which is around 5 euros. Wild camping is not permitted, and if you go off the trail you can find more comfortable accommodation in surrounding villages. We’d recommend spending the occasional night in a hotel (e.g. Le Chalet in Haut Asco) when you come across them.
Food
Hot meals are available in refuges for a few euros, and although basic, they mean you don’t have to carry your own food or cooking equipment. Travelling early in the season, we chose to take plenty of freeze-dried meals, but the ideal option may be to take a few emergency meals but eat in refuges wherever possible.